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Friday, October 09, 2015

Hard & Resilient Floor Care

I have a VCT floor that takes a lot of beating. It’s a fun center for kids that has 8 to 10 parties a day, 7 days a week. I am looking for a floor finish to withstand that kind of a beating. The owner has the staff doing the cleaning when it is closed every night, but the only time I have to buff the floors is once a month. I tried to get her to do it more often, but she would not hear of it. What do you think?
Are there any new floor products that will remove the salt residue on hard floors (ceramic tile, VCT)? We are presently using a neutral cleaner or white vinegar. Seems like it always takes 2-3 rinses, very labor intensive even with an autoscrubber.
How long should it take to refinish my floor? It is a large warehouse that was built in 1945.
I just took over the housekeeping in an old office building. The last cleaning service used floor finish on rough and smooth marble squares, leaving a darkened and chipping finish. Can this floor be stripped and cleaned properly without floor finish? I know marble should only be ground and buffed with a light mopping to clean.
I have an account with a correctional facility. The warden wants the bathrooms stripped and finished. I informed him since the flooring was sheet vinyl, I would not strip and finish them. The prior account holder applied finish over dirt, and used some type of finish that did not have a very good shine. Should sheet vinyl floors be finished?
A new building being constructed on our campus is using VHT flooring that the included literature says can have a floor finish applied, but is not necessary. What have others with this floor type been doing to maintain it?
I am preparing for the seasonal cleaning of the ceramic tile in our court house restrooms.Will be using a 12'' scrubber. What type of product works best and will a 12" scrub pad be to harsh? Going to use a doodle bug pad with a black pad also.The grout lines look decent since the facility is only 10 months old. Any advice or recommendations?
My employees are having trouble refinishing VCT floors. I've had a couple of jobs where the finish separates. What is going on?
We were asked to bid on a 23,000 sf computer server room for a VCT strip and refinish. There is no way to remove any of the computers or wiring and some of the aisles are very narrow. Is there a "dry", but not dusty way to remove the old finish?
I have a concrete floor painted red. It appears that sand has been mixed in. Some one prior to my cleaning, has put down finish. I stripped it and used a hose with hot water to rinse. Probably took about 50 gallons to rinse down the drain of the restroom. I also used a squeegee to push solution down the drain and rinsed the floor with a clean mop and fresh hot water. When the floor was completely dry, it looked like a residue on it. I stripped it again using same procedure and I came up with the same results. Can someone please enlighten me on how to correct this problem? I also used a black pad when I stripped the floor.
I applied finish to a new VCT floor and a few spots that weren't totally dry between coats ended up crackling. Is there a way to do some sort of patch work to fix the crackling?
The VCT at a middle school was stripped and refinished this summer. The stripping came out very clean, but then the boss laid 2 coats of sealer, 2 coats of one type finish, and 2 coats of another brand supposedly with a higher solids content. All 6 coats were laid in less than 24 hours and then burnished 24 hours after that against my protest. The finish now has scuffs down into it to the degree that they won’t come out with buffing or burnishing. We’ve tried twice over 3 months. Now, the tile is coming off the floor and the finish is terrible, but there is no use top scrubbing. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated.
Would you recommend sealing a new porcelain tile floor that is installed in the foyer area and also the public restrooms? I worry about what the urine will do in the men's restroom. Restroom are wet mopped each day with a neutral cleaner. Seems like the grout will require more attention long term. The building is a court house, so building usage is not too extreme each day.
We clean a cold storage facility. The cleaning crew noticed an odd film on the flooring there, and noted the floor squeaked when walking on it; this appeared overnight. We had switched from Rubbermaid No-rinse floor cleaner to Zep No-rinse floor cleaner, after this is when the issue started. I have changed the mop heads out thinking that there was something in them and scrubbed out the mop buckets. I have had them stop using the Zep product and mop with just water, and now a pine based cleaner. Any idea what could be the contamination causing the squeaks?
The floor is comprised of ceramic tile that came pre-finished, no sealing or top coating necessary due to a special coating applied during production of tiles. The floor is uneven due a combination of a bad foundation and the fact that it was built on swamp land. We use a ride-on auto-scubber by Tennant, model T-16, every night on it. A 3M chemical solution is used every other day, alternating with just water. The problem is that there are water spots everywhere, despite changing speed, chemicals, drivers, and adjusting the squeegees in various ways, and spot mopping up the bad spots.. Mopping the whole thing is simply not feasible because we only have one person at night cleaning the floors. Trail-mopping is not very feasible either due to the square footage we have to clean. Because the water spots are everywhere, we would be just mopping the entire thing. Basically, the floor cleaning crew is at its wit’s end trying to do things better so we stop getting complaints about the floors. Is there anything you can suggest to help?
I have a newly renovated terrazzo floor and within the last few months we have had big dark stains appear in the terrazzo. When we strip floor the stains are remaining.Has anyone had problems with these type stains and, if you have, can anything be done to remove them?
Every quarter we scrub and recoat a histology dept.floor. They did not want to pay for strip and refinish. Their stations are caked with paraffin. I have used hot water in my floor machine tank with a degreaser with a black hi-pro pad. We scrape as much as we can. Our labor is about double but we cannot get all of the paraffin off. Any suggestions?
Our new court house has terrazzo flooring as you enter each floor (there are 4 floors). I would estimate as much as 3000 sq. ft. per floor to maintain daily. What equipment would you recommend to increase efficiency for daily maintenance and also scheduled maintenance, as required. I know the right equipment will reduce the labor cost for maintaining the terrazzo and make time available for other duties.
My company cleans a lot of new buildings. A lot of our clients are using "fake hardwood" (vinyl plank) in their offices. Those floors are usually very easy to maintain on a daily basis, but we been noticing a lot of clear scuff marks that don’t seem to come off. What is the proper way to maintain those floors? Should we seal them? Should we buff, scrub?
One of the colleges that I clean has a lot of high spots on the VCT floor. After burnishing the floor with a 28" propane machine using a blue burnishing pad from Pioneer Eclipse, I see a lot of burned spots on the floor. Is there any way to prevent this from happening?
Can you send a procedure for the proper method to "heel" a swing machine? Can you provide me the name of a swing machine/floor scrubber that has an operating manual that addresses how to use the machine to "heel"? Can you provide me the name of a machine that will remove stubborn marks, scuff marks in VCT and vinyl flooring?
Prior to burnishing the floor with a propane burnisher, do I need to apply a restorer? Can it be done without applying any chemicals?
I just placed an order for a propane high speed burnisher. I was wondering if the price that you charge for burnishing the floor with the propane burnisher is the same as you would charge with a regular electric high speed burnisher. Could you give me a ball park on how much the price per sq. ft. would be for each individual machine?
I am having a problem with cleaning ceramic tiles in the restrooms due to a previous housekeeper's error in judgement. Toilet bowl cleaner was used to clean the floors and has left spotting on the floor. They then tried to cover up the problem by putting down a floor finish to no avail. What can I use to get the floor back to, or near, its original finish?
I am trying to achieve better quality results with our floor care services. We provide these services for schools, churches, and office buildings, typically VCT or Terrazzo flooring. We always apply 25% non-slip, high quality finish, but I am looking for a solution to reduce imperfections such as bubbles, hairs and particles that always seem to end up in the finish. We are using rayon finishing mops (string, not flat) and are very careful to make sure the floor is very clean post strip/scrub and pre re-finishing, including removing all loose fibers from the black stripping pads, etc. Regardless, it never seems to come out as immaculate as I see in certain retail stores. I understand that retail stores are propane burnished and receive care more frequently than the semi-annual floor care we provide, but is there a middle ground? I understand that burnishing between coats of finish application and can help remove some imperfections, but it is labor intensive, takes much more time and, of course, adds expense. When stripping and refinishing an entire school during the summer, it would be out of the question. What do you suggest to achieve that "retail/propane burnished" look? I am considering experimenting using microfiber flat mops for applying finish, but have yet to see a a proper finish/bucket system for this, aside from the all in one set-ups such as Johnson Diversey's Pro-Speed system. Since microfiber flat mops for finish require more coats, it seems a bit more time consuming, although I do understand that each coat requires less drying time since they are thinner. Any insight would be appreciated as we try to active better results.
We have tile floors throughout the building where I work and the floors are looking awful in the halls, where much traffic occurs, as well as under lunch tables where the tile is mopped numerous times daily.We have it on our weekly/monthly nightly cleaning that the floors are to be buffed once a month, but I have been informed that this should occur weekly (yes/no?). I have questions about the difference between burnishing and buffing; I honestly know nothing about either. We have approximately 80 families that enter our building and 80 children in the building 5 days a week. What should our monthly floor cleaning be like? Buffing or burnishing and how often?
I clean a restaurant floor that has VCT floors. They serve fried food from 11am until 8pm. The floor, after just being stripped not two weeks before, had a haze on it. Also, there seems to be some sort of grease or something on the floor. The floors are cleaned only ONCE a day at night.I am pretty sure that part of the problem stems from the store cleaning the floors only ONCE a day and the store owner will NOT clean it more than the once a day. I have no idea of how to clean. So, I guess my questions are: 1) Is there a cleaner that can clean the grease without stripping the finish, 2) What would you recommend for cleaning a floor such as this?
My peers and I have had some debate as to the procedure for top scrubbing. One side claims that you should burnish your floors after top scrubbing because you need to burnish out the scratches before applying finish; the result they claim will be a higher gloss on the floor. The other side contends that you should first top scrub the floor and then lay the coats of finish after all of the proper prep work. What is the correct or, let’s say, the best way of the two that I have just described?
We are now honing our terrazzo so that we will no longer need finish. Recently, my new boss suggested that I scrub all 8 corridors every day and buff when I can. What I did for 11 years before that was scrub and buff 2 floors per day (they get attention once per week) and maintain the main floor twice a week by scrubbing and buffing. Wouldn’t scrubbing every day dull the terrazzo?
How do we remove finish build-up in the low spots and the molded grout lines of a sculptured pattern vinyl linoleum flooring?
What are the best products out there to shine marble floors that have no shine? How do you bring back the shine on this marble floor?
I maintain the VCT floors in a 10,000 sq. ft. medical building. The floors were given one coat of finish by a post construction cleaning company. I then added 4 coats of Syntec Duraguard 25. I autoscrub with a red pad twice weekly, dust mop every night. Burnish after autoscrub. I have been scrubbing and recoating the heavy traffic areas occasionally. Recently, in preparation for winter grit and salt, I added 3 coats. That makes for 8 to 10 coats in the main hallways. Is this too much finish? Can this make the flooring even more slippery when wet? Was I correct in thinking that additional layers of finish would give me more to work with when I need to autoscrub every night come winter?
We recently did a strip and refinish on a daycare floor of about 10,000 sq. ft. We used Johnson’s Premia® floor finish. Now, about two months later, the teachers are using a Swiffer® wet cloth to wipe the floor daily and the cloth turns black. We dustmop and mop the floors daily with a neutral cleaner, and buff twice a month. The other day they called and said that they used a cloth diaper to wipe the floor and it turned black. So we went in, after the crew had cleaned, and used a cotton towel on the floor and it did not turn black. We followed with one of the Swiffers and it turned black. What do you think the black is? The other day they call and say that they used a cloth diaper to wipe floor and it turned black. So we went in, after the crew had cleaned, and used a cotton towel on the floor and it did not turn black. we followed with one of the swiffers and it turned black. what do you think the black is?
We currently use Frescomax and Vectra floor finish using a mop and bucket system. We're thinking of moving to the Prospeed system with the same chemicals. Has anyone changed methods and seen actual savings in terms of chemical cost, or is the savings all "theoretical" labor savings and increased productivity?
What is the exact procedure for obtaining the “wet look” on VCT? A client wants 6 coats of high solids finish and the floor burnished. At what point do I burnish and how?
How do sticky floors occur, and how do we prevent them? We use Johnson Diversey floor finish (3-5 coats) with a quat disinfectant floor cleaner from Hillyard.
I am trying to get information about the durability of Centiva® no finish flooring tiles and what some of the problems may be in facilities that have had the product for several years, preferably in a hospital setting or, at least, a high traffic building. Also, report any problems that may have developed in regards to cleaning and maintenance/repair/installation.
What is the best floor care procedure for Marmoleum® floors and what is the best finish for these floors?
What floor finish do you recommend for old 8"x 8" dark green asbestos tile in a heavily trafficked (wheel chairs included) dining room?
Could you please address taping off and other prep work including procedural recommendations for stripping and finishing an open (Terrazzo flooring) staircase with 2nd floor to ground level windows. The individual stairs are not open, just the sides of the stairway. This is difficult to describe; the main issue I am concerned about is the running over of slurry and finish during the work process while still allowing a complete strip and recoat job to be performed. Of course, there is a railing to protect that is mounted into the stairs. We have sheets of plastic and tape, but stripper runs beneath the tape in other work situations we have performed.
I have 3 facilities with highly polished porcelain tile. We are having issues with the floors streaking and leaving water spots after mopping. I have tried 6 different neutral cleaners, and several types of mops (microfiber, nylon, rayon, blended, etc) with the same results. Any chemical suggestions? We are limited to mopping, floor machines, and additional time to dry the tile is out of the question. Any ideas are appreciated!
We continue to battle black scuff marks in our corridors, which are resilient floor tile. We have 6 coats of Green certified floor finish down, but when we auto scrub, on a daily basis, many black marks are not removed. We are using a neutralizer and restorer that we measure into the fresh water for auto scrubbing. We are tired of following up with the doddle bug and green pad. Suggestions?
Are there any reasons why a back pack vacuum cleaner can not be used to clean a tile floor in a kitchen setting.
What causes floor finish to separate and leave little craters on some areas of the floor and not on others? We are using Betco Hybrid on old VCT tile. We have had the same problem on floors that have been stripped and/or top scrubbed.
Can you give me a detailed procedure for top scrubbing a tile floor? Chemical usage, color of pad, proper equipment, etc.
After checking my local area, I surprisingly found that no one uses steam to clean tile and grout. If you watch the videos from the folks that make the steam cleaners, steam vapor cleaning seems to be a great way to clean tile and grout and to me seems to be a good investment to add to my current business. What do you think, is vapor steam cleaning a better way to clean tile and grout?
We are stripping and refinishing 3500 sq. ft. of VCT in a doctor’s office. We have been charging .25 cents per square feet. We put down four coats of Phazer™ Multi 25 floor finish. We use the Phazer™ system which applies heavier coats of finish at the rate of 2 gallons for 1300 ft. or 35% heavier than conventional finish applied with a mop and bucket. Four coats of finish applied in this manner leaves 135% of the polymers on the floor. At 25 cents per sq. ft. we barely break even. What would you suggest for a square footage price?
What is the difference between marble and granite and what was the technique to identify them?
It is recommended to use floor sealer on Terrazzo that was installed 10 years ago. Why? What is the benefit? How many coats are recommended to be applied after the floors has been stripped before laying finish on it?
I ran across some books on CMI months ago on how to clean different types of stones. Some of my commercial and residential accounts have marble countertops, stone floors, stone showers, and I have no idea in how to properly clean and polish them. How can I order books related to this topic? Also, how do I further my education in executive and management development? With Train the Trainer, do I get the manual and exam to teach my employees? Is there something out there where I can be certified to teach this course to employees in facilities departments of companies/businesses/schools? What types of training manuals are out there that I can buy to further my knowledge in these areas?
We need to impregnate the grout on new flooring in our facility. No one has performed this duty before and would like some information on what is the easiest way to achieve this. Is there instruction out there on how to do it?
I have a yellow rubber cafeteria floor that has been stained with a brown substance. I need to get the stain out of the tile and have tried a chemical called heavy duty cleaner. It did help some, but stain is still there. I would like the stain gone without hurting the color of floor. Any ideas?
I have some terrazzo floors that have years of finish buildup. I have used some of the best stripper on the market with the most aggressive pads but still cannot get this finish off without multiple (8 or more) passes. It is so old that it is yellow and cracked. It does come off with a scraper but it is such a large area that it would take a long time. I don’t mind taking the time but wonder if there is a better/faster/more efficient way.
I just refinished a floor which looked great on Friday. Monday, it has streaks all over the floor and looked shiny, streaky, shiny, streaky, every other stroke. Used Spartan Vectra, 3M backpack, used a neutral rinse. When you feel that streak, it is slightly moist. This campus has chillers for the cooling. What causes this, can anything be done to prevent it, and why isn’t it all over the floor?
Some of these retail outlets are located geographically below sea level. There is a lot of traffic onto the VCT flooring that brings in sand, dirt, and salt which results in rapid deterioration of floor finish. We have tried different floor finishes, matting systems, and aggressive floor care maintenance programs, and even had meetings with operational managers of those stores. Now, with budget cuts and careful spending, it is a challenge to keep floors the way we want as a company. Our clients are satisfied, but I want to see if we could improve our ability to provide a service that goes beyond our clients’ expectations. We’ve been in this business for almost 20 years and I believe there’s a lot more to learn about servicing people. Please, if there are any recommendations of products, maintenance programs, or advice, I welcome them.
We were awarded a post construction clean that includes about 30,000 sq. ft. of Roppe cork flooring which we will be scrubbing, sealing, and finishing per contractor request. Our bidding is on the mark and there are no questions there, as I did general footwork on the cost of this project. My question is whether or not there may be a ''spray-on'' sealer we can use on this floor since it is so porous and has an actual sponge-like appearance. I want to be sure the first coat evenly penetrates all the spaces. I do have the manufacturer’s recommendation for sealers and that is what I plan to use but there are no guidelines as to application. Is it possible to use our gallon sprayers (new, of course, not to contaminate the sealer) to spray on that sealer? If we can’t apply with in the ''spray-on'' method, is it necessary to use a lamb’s wool applicator, or could we possibly use the Gearpress/Betco backpacks?
The client has an all-white Plexiglas looking type floor, possibly granite, that has scuff marks and scratches throughout the floor. What is the best way to clean this type of floor? Also, it may be covered with a clear polyurethane coating.
We have hard vinyl tile floors. Two weeks after school starts, the floors have a build-up where chairs slide back and forth. The chairs have plastic glides. I have also tried many after-market caps, felt covers, but none stay on. Are these marks from the floor finish (Waxie Mainstay) or the glides?
Every time I research and look for a way to get dirty grout clean, I find there are many different answers, but when I try the methods, they hardly work. What can I use to clean grout, and what steps do I follow?
I remember reading something concerning the "dot " method that Walmart uses to identify layers of floor finish on a floor and they use the dots to determine to buff, scrub and recoat, or to strip. Can you share that information with me again? Bruce
I just completed a project where we had to scrub & finish 150,000 square feet of VCT but only in 5,000 square foot sections due to it being a construction remodel with gondolas and what not being moved and repositioned. Do you have any tips on cutting and/or blending the lines? The finish provided by the big box retailer was from SC Johnson, one of their high maintenance, high gloss finishes. When we’re able to do complete stores in a matter of a couple of nights, we usually overlap our stripping, under lap our finishing, and than are able to connect on the next night with minimal lines. This....was another story, help! We’re bidding on a lot of these projects and though it was quite profitable, I’m always looking to excel.
Does high speed burnishing cause stripping to be more difficult?
We can’t get up Betadine stains in surgery. Any ideas?
What is the proper way to clean a Formica floor? Can an auto scrubber and or buffer be used?
Our newly constructed Culinary Arts Building has been open for approximately 2 months. The general contractor decided to let us move into the building, and then came back over the Christmas break and "stained" the poured concrete hallway. It is my belief that they used an epoxy type of finish and now we are told we should "protect" this with 2 coats of wax. Has anyone heard of waxing over a stained finish like this and if so, what type of finish would you recommend? Something acrylic, high solids? My fear is that we’re going to create a maintenance nightmare by doing this and we’ll be constantly re-coating this floor to make it look good.
I was asked to clean and maintain a vinyl plank flooring installed over concrete. It was installed one year ago and was never maintained. No cleaner or sealer has ever been used. There is noticeable adhesive left on the plank, attracting dirt. Asphalt has been tracked in, as well as salt and other contaminates. I told the owner I would research this and get back to him with suggestions and a maintenance schedule. Please help.
II stripped, sealed, and buffed (175 rpm) about 1500 sq ft of stained concrete a couple of weeks ago and it turned out great. Now, just two weeks later, it looks absolutely awful. The dogs and vacuum have scratched the heck out of it. I’m pretty certain that I applied too many coats of a low gloss acrylic water based sealer while trying to even out the streak marks. Is it ok to use a 1600 rpm burnisher on that sealer? I was told that the material had to be compatible with the rpm’s, and if it wasn’t it would powder up and melt into the concrete. Unfortunately, I used all of the sealer and threw the container away, and the janitorial supply place that I bought it from is closed for the holidays.
When applying floor finish to an automotive retail store after a strip, we had a problem with the floor finish "peeling" during application. The facility requires 5 coats of finish, and the first 3 went down flawlessly, but number 4 started to remove coat 3 during application, and again number 5 peeled part of number 4 in a different area. What is the cause of this? Conditions were dry floor with fans, a/c and outside temp was about 18 degrees F. with the door open.
We’ve had a couple of issues with people slipping and falling on our terrazzo floors after they were sealed and finished with Phazer Monostar. Does Monostar finish used on terrazzo floors make the floors slippery?
Our newly constructed Culinary Arts Building has been open for approximately 2 months. The general contractor decided to let us move into the building, and then came back over the Christmas break and "stained" the poured concrete hallway. It is my belief that they used an epoxy type of finish and now we are told we should "protect" this with 2 coats of wax. Has anyone heard of waxing over a stained finish like this and if so, what type of finish would you recommend? Something acrylic, high solids? My fear is that we’re going to create a maintenance nightmare by doing this and we’ll be constantly re-coating this floor to make it look good.
We have 42,000 sq. ft. to be stripped and refinished, some areas once a year, others biannually. At least 2 coats of sealant and at least 3 coats of finish, 6 coats total. How many workers would I need, how much time to do the work, and how much time for each worker in hours?. Amount of stripper, sealer and finish?
We recently had Roppe rubber tile put down in one of our units. We will not put down sealer or finish due to the patient population for this area. What is the best way to care for this product? The Roppe rep. and the installer were no help. They say a 1000 rpm machine will bring out the natural paraffin wax to produce a low luster sheen. Before I purchase the machine, tell me if it is effective? We are also having difficulty keeping the floor looking clean with just a flat mop method. We are having to scrub once a month with a slow speed, neutral cleaner and white super polish pad. Any ideas to help maintain between scrubbings
I just got a job cleaning the floors at an Office Depot. They want me to buff once a week to make them shine. I’ve done lots of research on vinyl floors and the different methods of burnishing and spray buffing, though I’m still confused about which procedure to use. The floor is filthy and dirty in some spots, with scuff marks, and some areas require a scrubbing or heavy mopping to remove the stain and scuffs. I have a hand held buffer, around 300 rpms. Should I dry buff or spray buff? or find a high-speed buffer and burnish the floors? The reason I would like to use a handheld push buffer is that some of the aisles are not wide enough for a ride-on buffer. Some say dry buff and some say wet buff. I just want to do a good job that is not time consuming because I only have 1 hour and a half to finish the buffing before the store opens in the morning.
What kind of machine do you use to clean 1" ceramic tiles and grout on a bathroom floor? And when you spray buff a floor, how do you know when it’s time to strip and refinish?
I have a new retail store with 10,300 sq. ft. of VCT. I am trying to budget an annual hard floor maintenance cost to keep these floors looking great. I will not be doing the work but want to know what I should expect to pay for this work. Please help
We recently stripped and finished about 6,000 square feet in various locations in a church building. All throughout the process, the floor looked clean and shiny. After applying the fourth coat, no one stayed around to wait for it to dry and see the results. The next morning, after about 8 hours of drying time, we returned to find it looking splotchy. Almost the entire space that was treated had patches of floor that now looked dull and different than the surrounding shiny patches. We do not have any idea what may have caused this as we performed every step of the job the same way as we have at countless other facilities with no problem. What could have caused these spots or patches of shiny and dull floors? Also, is the floor ready for a second and third coat of finish to be added as soon as it is dry to the touch and sight, or does it need a certain amount of time per coat to dry? The stripper we used is a different brand that we have never used before... Are there combinations of chemicals in different brands of stripper and finish that should not be used together and could cause this type of problem? Lastly, how long should finish be allowed to set before being burnished to bring out the shine?
Newly installed VCT has burned spots now from burnishing. I have to decide if the problem is the contractor’s or the person using the floor machine. Some tiles have small bumps in them from maybe something under the tile. I am thinking that the burnisher was used too long in one spot and caused the burned spots. Can you advise me on this type of problem? How many coats of sealer/finish should be used for high traffic? And lastly, how long should the last coat sit and cure before the floor is used full force?
We had two different brand of ceramic tiles installed about a year and a half ago in a bar and restaurant. We have been having problems with the tiles losing their brilliance when an acid is spilled on the tiles. Tonic, lemon juice, and any other mild acid make the tiles become blotchy. What could cause this problem and how can we solve the problem? What could cause this problem and how can we solve the problem?
How much area will a typical 5 gal. pail of floor finish cover in one coat?
What’s the best way to clean Betadine from an operating room floor?
We have an account with a small dance studio. They have 2 VCT floor dance rooms, each approx. 1,200 sq. ft. The owner uses one coat of a concrete sealer (acrylic base formula) to eliminate slips and falls - and to attempt to protect the VCT. This is the 2nd year we were hired to strip "a" floor once a year (alternate rooms every other year). In the mean time, she seals both rooms with one coat of the concrete sealant (yep, totally blackened by scuff marks and all the caked-on residue) as needed through the year. The stripping job is tough for us, but we have had good results. We have noted excessive wear on some parts of the tile and have addressed the issue with the owner. She reports that she's aware that she is ruining the floor by not protecting it, but feels that there's no option as she can't finish it in fear of a slip. I have suggested finishing the floor with a finish/sealant such as "hard as nails" by Betco to more properly protect her financial investment and she could follow-up with her concrete sealant. I have asked a couple of my suppliers, but no one seems to give me a concrete answer. Are there any other alternatives to protecting the VCT dance floor while protecting the dancers from possible slippery floors? If so, what are the names of the products and/or where can I find them.
We’ve owned a residential/commercial cleaning company since 1973 and are currently a service provider for a wonderful facilities maintenance company. We have been asked to bid on a contract for Dollar Stores for both stripping-refinishing and scrubbing-recoating of the floors on a regular basis. They want 2 separate bids. The stores are from 3,000 to 9,000 sq ft+ We haven’t provided bids for this kind of work before nor have we done this type of maintenance in the past...any help on bidding based on the work scope below? Then, if we’re awarded the contract, help with procedure, tips, sub-contracting etc.? The work scope is as follows: Strip Service Arrive at store per confirmed start time. Minimum three (3) person crew. Remove any old finish and build-up. Apply four (4) even coats of approved finish to the tile floors. Walk the floor with the manager to ensure the scope of work has been completed. Document any issues or concerns. Provide "before" & "after" pictures, where possible. Swing machine or auto-scrubber or propane stripping machine. Stripper: SC Johnson "Bravo 1500+" or Armadillo "High Productivity". Finish: SC Johnson "Showplace" or Armadillo "Extended Wear". Crew must supply ALL their own cleaning equipment & supplies including mops, buckets, doodlebugs, rags, scrapers, etc. Crew will strip sales floor, restrooms, office and VCT leading to those areas. Some stains may not be removed if they are embedded in the tile. Desired finish is a "satin" look and not a high-gloss finish. Service will last approximately 8-10 hours for the initial strip at the average-sized store. Recoat Service Arrive at store per confirmed start time. Two (2) person crew minimum. Top scrub current finish to remove surface dirt & build-up. Apply two (2) even coats of approved finish to the tile floors over existing finish. Walk the floor with the manager to ensure the scope of work has been completed. Document any issues or concerns. Swing machine or auto-scrubber. Scrubbing solution: SC Johnson "Stride" or Armadillo "Floor Cleaner". Finish: SC Johnson "Showplace" or Armadillo "Extended Wear". Crew must supply ALL of their own cleaning equipment & supplies including mops, buckets, doodlebugs, rags, scrapers, etc. Crew will scrub sales floor, restrooms, office & VCT leading to those areas. Dirt which has become deeply embedded in the current finish may not be removed. Desired finish is a "satin" look and not a high-gloss finish. Service will last approximately 4 hours at the average-sized store. d finish is a “satin” look and not a high-gloss finish. Service will last approximately 4 hours at the average-sized store.
I have just faux painted my concrete floors. I used a Behr wet look sealer, but after curing for 24 hours when I slid furniture across the floor the paint peels. What can I do to prevent this?
I need a procedure for removing old finish and sealer. We have tried all of the customary ways. The grout is really bad and the customer wants to see an improvement.
We have a small area that has Lonseal resilient sheet flooring. What is the best procedure to clean and restore the gloss.
I need classes on natural stone cleaning such as marble and granite.
We recently stripped VCT at a saw mill. Stripping the floors left a lot of dirty puddles. We sucked those up with a wet vac and then came back and scrubbed the dirty areas. Some cleaned up and some did not. We then put down water, sucked it up and continued with the process. We did all we knew to get rid of what appears to be dirt on the floor. We then finished the tile. The manager called today and wanted to discuss the way the floors looked with what appears to be dirt under the finish. He claims this should not happen, but as I said, we did everything we knew to clean the floors after stripping. Is there a way to deal with this and have a completely clean floor? The floors have many areas on them and get a good bit of traffic.
Is it wise to use sealer or finish on restroom floors?
How long should it take to strip and finish an area of 100 square feet? Are there guidelines available to measure the time for stripping and finishing resilient tile floors?
We have a problem with the floors in the produce area of a grocery store. After cleaning at night, employees would come in with carts full of veggies that drip onto the floor. Lettuce and other veggies are thrown onto the floor. Then they would clean up with a hose and a squeegee. The concrete paint and finish have gotten worse and started breaking in the veggie area. I would like to know if this would cause the finish to soften and start to break up like a natural stripper and whether we should use a stronger finish and would it make any difference. I have tried to get them to throw waste into a trash can and use mats to prevent drips onto the floor, but no one seems to care or listen.
What are the industry standards for measuring how much floor can be serviced in an 8 hr. shift (wash+ burnish/ strip-scrub+recoat)?
How do you remove scratches from a urethane floor finish?
A brown color appears days after stripping and recoating a white 12x12 vct floor in a GSA Building. It is maintained by daily cleaning with a neutral cleaner, a weekly burnishing after applying a mop on restorer, and a monthly stripping. What could be causing the discoloration? It happens days after the strip and recoat, and it is on-going.
What causes wax to yellow so quickly?
I remember when all you needed to neutralize a floor with salt on it was to add a little vinegar to your water. Today’s products leave floors looking smeared and blotchy. I’ve tried all kinds of neutralizers and rinses to no avail. Hot water, cold water, nothing seems to remove the salt anymore. Could someone recommend a product that works?
Is it okay to strip and recoat vinyl floors at 60 degrees or lower?
Can you explain the "negative aspects" of applying floor finish on a weekly basis, as well as using a neutral floor cleaner on a daily basis? This is the expectation of a high-ranking facility official.
I have been asked to clean and finish a VCT floor in a school. It is new construction and I will be doing a one-time cleaning before it is turned over to the school to do the upkeep. What is the typical cleaning and prep for this type floor? Does the flooring have a manufacturer’s coating on it that needs to be removed? Would it be best to sub this out to someone who does this on a regular basis?
Does a neutral cleaner eat away at the wax and require refinishing on a more frequent basis?
A new cork floor glued to concrete has been installed in one of our new buildings. It’s the only floor of its kind on campus. It’s also a high traffic area, mainly students. I know the recommendation for cleaning this floor, but can’t seem to find matting that would be recommended. They say no rubber matting. How do I keep this floor dry without matting? There’s also a snack bar in this area serving fountain drinks.
Our patient rooms are being remodeled and an Armstrong's Timberline is being used for flooring. It is heterogeneous sheet goods with a urethane coating on it. We can not get floor sealer or finish to stick to it. As soon as the floor gets wet, the finish dissolves. We have used the recommended products by Armstrong along with Spartan and Simonize floor finishes with no luck. We have also had some minor problems with some other sheet goods with the finish flaking after it is mopped. Is anyone else having this problem and is there a solution? The factory representative from Armstrong is also at a loss as to why this is happening.
Our lobby has an unglazed blue ceramic tile. It has been down for about 15 years and no matter what we try to clean it with there are always foot prints left afterwards. It looks clean when wet, but as soon as it dries the footprints come back. The lobby is not heavily used, either. My employees say it has always looked that way. Could it possibly be from the walk-off mat? Would steam cleaning work, or should we try to deep scrub it?
The former environmental services management used Perpetual Floor Shine and buffed, buffed, buffed. Now, it's very hard to remove. It has what is called AZO Dye, which may explain the yellowing in the floor tile. Anyone have any ideas/experience how to remove this?
I need a guide for a good floor maintenance program
Can you recommend procedures, chemicals, and pads to save time cleaning new or old rubber floor tile in a auto dealership?
We are currently cleaning (on a 7-day schedule, midnight to dawn) a very busy cafe/restaurant/bakery. My problem is a metallic rusty stain on terrazzo tile, caused by a floor courtesy sign. The rust is getting less prominent, but can you suggest a method to get rid of it once and for all?
Is there any way to removal yellowish/brown traffic lanes from vinyl composition tile (VCT) ?
What is proper procedure for stripping and finishing a cafeteria floor of approximately 2500 square feet. I have done it before solo and it was a pain!! Took me two days!! What size crew do you recommend? I have a two brush autoscrubber and a single brush floor machine.
I have a new floor installed, (Pietre Native) porcelain tile. What is the procedure after the grouting is complete? The contractor does not know or have any written documentation. Is it grout and seal, or grout and impregnate, or something else. The product says it’s "fully vitrified". I need the cleaning contractor to know before they attempt to clean the floors and leave me with something damaged from the start.
I would like to know the time standards for stripping and finishing floors, and for top scrubbing floors, and a time standard breakdown of the entire floor care procedure. What the best practice to figure how many sq. ft. can be done in a day?
We are stripping and refinishing VCT flooring at a hospital. We are being slowed down in the stripping process because multiple coats of sealer were put down when the floors were last done. Is there a better type of stripper to use to take off the sealer? Should we use a stripper with butyl in it? I've heard that it's more powerful.
I have a 3 story atrium with a terrazzo staircase from the 1st to 3rd floor. What type of sealer would you recommend? I don't want to use regular floor finish as that will need to be stripped and re-finished periodically. Is there some type of "permanent" sealer that can be used? I am OK with re-applying every year or so, but would much prefer something that I don't have to strip. I'm not after a "wet look" shine, just something to resist coffee & soft drink spills & make it easier to dust & wet mop.
I recently had my painted concrete floor sealed with an acrylic based sealer. Within the first 48 hours the floor lost its shine. The floor was allowed to dry for 14 hours. What caused the acrylic sealer to lose its shine so quickly? If it needs to be resealed, what is the best sealer with the highest shine? Also, what floor stripper should I use? Lastly, the installers used oil based paint on top of the concrete. It adhered well and is not flaking or otherwise damaged.
We have 18 year old VCT floors that have been poorly maintained and has stains that chemical stripping does not remove. Can they be sanded, as scraping with a sharp blade removes the stain? If they can, who has the equipment to do that?
What are the best maintenance methods for hard wood gym floors and what equipment do I need?
I have a number of patient rooms that have Mipolam vinyl flooring. My problem is they are all stained with yellow and black buildup. This floor is one color all the way thru, so is it o.k. to strip it and try to get the gunk off and get back to the normal floor? Do I need to apply finish to make it resistant to the harsh cleaners we have to use?
I am having trouble with finish on concrete floors in a grocery store that seems to have a lot of moisture. The employees are really rough, scratching the floors, etc. None of the finishes I tried stay on properly even though the floor has been stripped and prepared properly. Also, we put enough coats on it to give it a good base. What would you recommend? The last one I tried was supposed to last 18 months before the next stripping with maintenance, but seems to last only a week before it becomes dull, with their cleaning chemicals making it sticky. It’s the oddest thing I have ever come across.
The center where I work has 40 year old VCT tiles which are now turning black along all the edges. The tile has cracked on the corners and you can hear it as you walk on it. This happened after the new service had stripped and refinished the floors. The employee doing the stripping was having an ongoing dispute with his employer and was eventually let go. Could the employee have caused this problem to the tile floor by leaving the stripper on too long, using too much, or just not following the directions?
What is the proper procedure when using a scrubbing machine on VCT? Also, what type of pad or brush should I use?
We have marble floors in the lobby areas of our hotel. In the winter months, we have problems with heavy traffic which causes a heavy build up of white salt residue that is difficult to remove from the floor. Repeated mopping seems to spread it around rather than remove it. Can you provide advice on the best practices for removing salt from marble floors or advise of any products that are safe for marble cleaning? We currently use neutral based floor cleaner.
What is the best way to clean laminate flooring? We have roughly 500 sq.ft. I have been using neutral cleaner, but I have been getting water marks when it dries. The customer suggested Murphy’s Oil Soap.
My husband and I clean a local church/art center. We are scheduled to strip, finish, and buff the main floor next month. It is large black and white vinyl-type tiles. They are dull and no amount of cleaning helps them. Can someone tell me how to "strip" the floors and apply the finish and how many coats of finish? How long should we wait between coats to apply the next coat? How long should we buff the floor? Does this type of tile require finishing/buffing? (It looks dull and dirty all the time.) Once the job is completed, what is the correct cleaner to use on the floor? They have supplied gallons of Simple Green for us to use.
I do the floor care at a small super market which has very heavy traffic and lots of salt residue in the winter. What type of floor finish is best for this situation? The finish that I am currently using quickly deteriorates and gets pitted.
An employee spilled acid toilet bowl cleaner on a VCT floor. The area was stripped and refinished, but the outline of the spill returned, darker than the rest of the floor. Is there a way to fix this?
My floor care crew consists of 2 people. My boss wants to replace the second person by purchasing a floor scrubber to pickup the stripper. When I had the 2 person crew, one would apply the stripper, wait on the dwell time, both would run buffers, then one would use a wet vac to pickup the excess and one would use a mop to pickup what was left by the wet vac. I am not convinced that using a floor scrubber to remove stripper is practical / efficient. The floors that we service are anywhere from 2500 sq. ft. to 30,000 sq. ft. and furnished. Is there a suggested method for stripping and re-finishing? Is the process I described above with the use of a floor scrubber a desired method for floor care? My boss thinks you can just run the scrubber over the stripper, scrub it and pick it up in one pass. Some of the floors that we service are at least 50 years old and have not been maintained with any regularity.
We recently installed polished slate floors. Which buffer or polisher would be best to maintain the shine without damaging the sealer?
We have approximately 1500 sq. feet of scored and stained concrete in our new home (1 year old). About 6 weeks ago, at the advice of the concrete contractor, I applied 2 coats of a mop-on acrylic floor polish. It really shined up the floor but it shows scuff marks just from walking across the floor in shoes. Last week, the guy who cleans our home, who is a custodian by trade, spray burnished the floor with a high speed machine and a "Gorilla" pad. This process did remove the scuff marks (temporarily anyway), but there are now places where you can see circle marks in the floor- like the circular outline of the pad from the burnisher. What would have caused those marks to appear and how can we prevent them? I watched him burnish the floor and I could not see that he moved too slowly, or lingered too long over one spot, but maybe he did. He is suggesting coming back and scrubbing the floors and then applying at least 2-3 coats of a more durable floor finish, something that would resist scuffs better than the product that is currently on the floor. Does this sound reasonable, and is their a product you would recommend for this?
I am interested in using a wax or grease pencil to mark layers of finish on VCT. It is my understanding that Wal-Mart uses this procedure to alert their floor care technicians that a floor is in need of a scrub and top coating. The pencil marking is visible to the trained eye only. I’m not sure what color and would like to know more about the process and if anyone uses this.
If I am planning on stripping and refinishing a VCT floor, is sanding the floor necessary? If so, what color of pad should I use on my scrubber, and when should I sand it, before or after stripping the floor?
I would like to find out what companies charge for tile and grout cleaning and sealing.
Have you heard of ultra-durable urethane finish for VCT that lasts several times longer than acrylic finish and does not require burnishing, stripping or frequent recoating?
What would cause swirls in the floor after finishing? A clean mop head was used, and the floor was rinsed, neutralized, and buffed before applying floor finish.
I have about 10,000 square feet of unglazed ceramic tile that is in a busy church. The tile and grout is in poor shape and has never been sealed. First I will be cleaning it to get in good shape and then sealing it. How many coats should be used. What brand name of sealer should be used. How often will this need to be re-sealed.
What is the safest and most effective brush to use on a propane stripping machine, to strip the finish off uneven VCT floors?
I am having a hard time maintaining our indoor pool flooring. It is made up of a small, 2"x2" white tile with white grout. Are there any good products out there that may help that are GREEN ?
The hospital just had new vinyl tile installed in the hallway. We are getting a line down the center of the hall because we have to do half the hallway at a time and the line is where the finish overlaps. Can you tell me what might be causing this?
A retail/service pet shop with VCT has 12 very heavy metal hydraulic grooming tables that must be moved every time the floor is serviced. We will be stripping and refinishing, then cleaning and burnishing every two weeks. Wall-to-wall detailing is required, so quite a bit of moving is involved on this job, including 2 antique barber chairs and an antique bathtub (short, no feet). Ergonomics, safety, time, and the aggravation factor are my main concerns, besides profitability. Using long pry bars to lift the items onto a dolly would mar the floor finish. The tables are 24"x 44" and must be moved through a 32" doorway for the strip/refinish process. There is no space to park material handling equipment. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I have a customer who is asking for an "Accepted Industry Standard" definition for "Burnish".
What would be the best way to maintain a back hallway that is VCT? It has 7 coats of finish and is maintained 5 days a week. It has heavy traffic from stock being brought in and grease on the floor from a nearby kitchen. Pallets are left on the floor, there is break room employee traffic, etc. I am using an auto scrubber with a white pad and burnishing twice a week. My co-worker thinks I should mop, so as to not take off so much finish, but I disagree. With the amount of daily traffic it receives, I believe my method is better to get at least a year before we have to strip.
I have a 40 year old flagstone floor in my home that is dark gray in color. I am being told that there is something I can use to restore and lighten it. Is this the case and what do you recommend?
I am looking at scrubbing and sealing 77,000 sq ft of concrete. I am not sure what the going price per sq. ft. would be for an area of this size. I have done many smaller jobs and have felt comfortable with the price per sq. ft. that I have been charging. I am located in southern Oregon.
I am currently using an autoscubber and/or low speed floor machine for stripping VCT in small to medium retail facilities. I am thinking about purchasing a high speed propane stripper as I would like to take on bigger jobs and finish the jobs that I have now faster. Are there drawbacks to stripping with a high speed stripper versus a low speed?
My crew is having trouble getting floor stripper to work in the prescribed manner. We are using Bravo stripper to remove 4 coats of Carefree floor finish. We are using a carefully measured 4 gal. water with 1 gal. stripper. We are using a good quality black pad on our swing machine. This is a veteran crew that has used these products for years. The manufacturer and distributor of these products say their samples test "within spec". The floors consist of asbestos tile and some terrazzo. We also have some vinyl tiles in the building. The stripper should remove most of the finish with one application, as it has in past years. This year my crew has had to strip a room 3 times before a satisfactory job results. This is wasting time and materials. Could the problem relate to the water in the building? Water too hard? Can I add something to the stripper to help it work?
I have a 5 gallon bucket of sealer-finish that was opened & partially used. How long does this product stay good after opening? It has not been contaminated. Is there a trick to testing this somehow?
I am bidding a medical facility that has 4220 sq. ft. of VCT and they want 26 visits a year. How much time and how often for spray buffing? How much time and how often for a scrub with re-coat? On the re-coat, do I put just one coat or do I need more? How much do I charge per square foot or per hour?
An employee spilled acid bowl cleaner on a marble floor. The marble does not have a smooth hi-gloss factory finish. It is a more natural finish with veins and natural pitting. Any ideas on how to remove the stain, or at least lighten it, without having to grind the stone?
I service a molecular biology lab that has a VCT floor. The lab owner likes a high shine, so I use a high gloss floor finish. Due to the nature of the business, the lab owner wants me to start using Clorox® Cleanup® in the mop water. I am wondering what effect this will have on the finish. How much can I use before damaging the finish? A lot of dirt seems to penetrate the finish on this floor. It is a white floor, but the traffic lanes turn a light brown due to dirt in about 6 months after stripping and recoating. This is not related to the Clorox® Cleanup®, as I have just started using it. The amount of dirt that penetrates the finish in traffic lanes is far more than I have seen in many years in other similar buildings and this is a VERY CLEAN environment. Is there a floor finish I could use that would maintain a high shine and not absorb dirt while not being damaged by the Clorox® Cleanup®?
I service a locker room facility that has a "textured, painted concrete floor". Trying to maintain this has been very frustrating. I can sweep it ok; however, when I try to mop it, it only looks worse with mop fibers everywhere. I don’t believe the floor has any type of sealer or finish, only paint. Any ideas on how I can maintain this on a nightly basis?
I maintain the VCT floors at a beauty school, and I can’t remove the spilled hair color. I have tried stripping the spot and using hair color cleaner to no avail. These spots are a real eyesore to me, and I really need to remove them.
I would like to know if you have any suggestions or recommendations on the best way to clean and maintain bamboo flooring.
I am checking to see if we can use propane floor cleaning machines in our hospital. We would not use them by patient room because we are aware there would be some odor.
What are the procedures to strip and refinish vinyl sheet flooring in residential setting?
How do we avoid microfiber hazing?
Our terrazzo floor has a large discolored spot from a water fountain overflow. Is there anything I can use to remove this?
I have some wood floors that are in good shape, but need to be refinished. I am unclear as to how to apply the finish. I heard that you have to abrade the floor first and then apply the finish. Can you help me?
I recently stripped and refinished a 3000 sq. ft floor in a doctor’s office and I had a lot of trouble getting the old finish off. I used two kinds of stripper (Phase 1 and Liquid Dynamite) and scrubbed with black pads. I also used a Rotovac 360 with my truck mount. I finally just put finish down and figured I'd try to re-strip next month.
I cannot seem to remove the finish I used on Armstrong vinyl composition tile. I used Maintenance One Non-Buff Floor Finish which advertises that it is a metal-interlocked acrylic polymer for use on all types of resilient flooring. I have used my commercial stripper, as well as several others, including the traditional ammonia. You can still see the ghostly finish present. I can scrap it off with a razor blade but even then, it is not completely off. Could you please give me an idea what to try next.
How can stripping slurry be removed once it has dried?
The baseboards and corners of our marble floors are very dirty. The dirt accumulated over time because of low quality cleaning. Is there a specific machine or chemical to solve such a problem?
How do you remove swirl marks from a wood floor that has been buffed with a high speed buffer and paste wax?
The baseboards and corners of our marble floors are very dirty. The dirt accumulated over time because of low quality cleaning. Is there a specific machine or chemical to solve such a problem?
I am looking for information on caring for a concrete warehouse floor. The floor gets extremely slippery during damp weather and the forklifts tend to skid quite a bit, making for an unacceptably dangerous situation. What do I use to remove the original sealant, and what do I use to re-seal the floor?
Why is stripping slurry so difficult to remove once it dries on the floor during the dwell or removal process when stripping a floor?
Why does residue from floor scrubbing solutions create finish recoating problems?
I have never seen an article on how to properly maintain cork tile flooring. The majority of the flooring inside our headquarters is "Wicanders” cork flooring.
I have a floor in a Boys and Girls Club that was recently tiled with VCT. We washed it really well and put down three coats of finish to seal it, but the children still have managed to cut through this all and there are now deep cuts and scratches in the tile. The tile is white, so the scuff marks look awful. The tiles appear to be so soft. How can I protect and maintain a high quality shine on these floors?
I have to submit a complete maintenance plan for VCT/ Marmoleum flooring. Strip, scrub/ re-coat, burnish, etc. My question is, does any one have or know where I can find a complete professionally written maintenance plan to submit to my client? Perhaps an outline where I could fill in the building info, prices, and recommended frequency.
How do we use an auto scrubber when the floor has sand and snow on it that has been tracked in from the outside?
What is the best procedure to clean sheet vinyl flooring? Is there a sealer or finish to apply on this type of floor that will resist scuff marks? The floor is only one year old, not in bad shape, in a dentist’s office. In one area they use chairs a lot but it shows little wear, just some scuff marks. I just refinished the VCT floors, but the sheet vinyl floors needs some work before they get into bad shape.
While scrubbing a VCT floor in a large medical facility, I had two buffers running, working toward one another from opposite ends of the building. Another person was running the wet vac, with the plan being to remove solution from one end, then go to the other end. We got sidetracked by another issue, and the solution was almost evaporated from a large part of the floor. We removed the small amount of remaining solution, then mopped before applying finish. I was taught that allowing the solution to evaporate from the floor is a problem. My question is, why is that a problem? Isn't the goal really to remove the solution from the floor? If I'm going to mop afterward anyway, is there really any reason to fret if some of the solution has evaporated?
We have been trying to remove some serious lime build up from of a quarry tile floor. Nothing we have tried is working.
What are the differences between high solids, low solids, and metal interlock finishes? Where would each be used?
I would like to know the procedure for the use of an Advance 1500 rpm burnisher. Do I just walk in straight line with the machine?
How do you get magic marker out of marble tile?
Our high school commons has a terrazzo floor that was installed in 1966. It is in good shape except for an area where someone dragged some furniture across it that scratched the terrazzo through the factory finish. Is there a way to repair/replace the seal or hide the scratched areas? We have tried stripper several times and have used 120 grit screens with the stripper.
What is a good product for the cleaning of elevator tracks? Would love to see the shine come back!
Our rec. centre has 3000 square feet of sheet vinyl that is being replaced with Alloc® commercial laminate flooring. We have maintained the vinyl with damp mopping, auto-scrubbing, burnishing, deep scrubbing, and refinishing. I have been told by the Alloc® supplier that we void the warranty if we damp mop or auto-scrub the laminate with a neutral cleaner. They warranty cleaning with laminate floor cleaner only. What a large microfiber flat mop be the most time effective way to apply laminate floor cleaner to an area that size?
In the school that I have a contract with, the custodian has asked my cleaners to clean the floor finish with hot water. I have always thought that hot water softened the finish and that a daily habit of this would cause the floors to yellow.
What is the best swivel ergonomic loop mop handle?
What is the best product to use on new construction hard wood floors? We do a lot of new construction cleanup.
How can pet urine stains be removed from Saltillo tile? The Saltillo tile was installed and sealed with a high gloss sealer about 4 years ago. However, water penetrates the tiles in some areas when the floor is mopped, but the water spots dry completely. The urine stain leaves a darker "water mark" on tile. There are also a few grease spots on the tile.
We have been asked to strip, seal and refinish a VCT floor in a plant every four months. They want a low maintenance "wet look" finish, but it is impossible to burnish due to time restraints. Please advise.
I have recently acquired a client who insists on high-speed burnishing. I have purchased a 1600 RPM electric floor machine and am seeking some advice about how to begin. Is it necessary to strip or scrub off the current finish and reapply before I burnish? I am already using a high-solids finish. Can I just begin with it? Also, if I desire to burnish every couple of weeks, do I have to apply an additional product to the floor, or can I just buff the existing finish? How many coats of finish should the floor have on it to respond properly to burnishing? If I am careful, is there a way to avoid stripping more often? Because we are careful about removing dirt before applying finish, we presently go three years without stripping, and I'd hate to foul up this schedule.
I recently took on a job in a club that has a wood floor, which they asked me to do. They said they have it "stripped and waxed" 1-2 times per year. I realize wood floors need special care, such as cleaners and finish, etc. This floor is real wood and is waxed, not polyurethaned or sealed. I have looked all over for some reference material. Nothing. I'd like some ideas on what the professionals use for professionally cleaning and waxing a wood floor. Procedures? Products? I see a million articles on sanding and sealing. Nothing on waxing. Can you help?
Can someone explain what is meant by a floor being resilient and non-resilient? What types of floors are either of the two, and what is the best way to clean them and apply top coats to them?
In the past two years, I have done the initial scrub/ finish for several large new installations of VCT flooring for one company. In one case, there was a rather serious problem with the glue wicking up around the edges of the tiles. It was a mess, but only happened the one time. The installer claimed the problem was my fault, caused by flooding the floor. I've been doing VCT for twenty-five years, and this had never happened before. I used a shower feed tank on my buffer to put down a standard soap and water solution, which was quickly removed with a wet vac. This is the only method I know of for cleaning a floor completely. While talking with a contractor recently, he tells me that VCT no longer comes with a paraffin coating; but with a powder for keeping the tiles from sticking together. He says the appropriate method for cleaning a new floor for the initial finishing is to damp mop, then use an aggressive pad without moisture to knock loose glue drips, paint etc., from the floor surface, and then apply finish, using six or seven coats the first time. Can this be true? Six coats is a LOT of finish. In any case, I was taught that a proper installation, with drying time to harden the glue, should provide a surface that would not allow liquid to enter the cracks and cause wicking. As I mentioned, this only happened once. Was it my method, or was it the installation, that caused the problem?
What product is good for removing urine stains from quarry tile and grout? I used a quarry tile & grout cleaner, scrubbed, and pressure washed at 1200 PSI and still it came back along with efflorescence. I assume stains around the base of urinals are caused by urine.
What should I bid to strip, seal, and refinish a church with 5,000 sq .ft. of vinyl flooring? How long should it take? How many men do I need?
A facility wants us to scrub and refinish their 10,000 square foot complex. The floor is VCT. Most of the floor is in good shape but for a small area near the entrance, which may have to be stripped. What is the best way to strip a small section and blend it in to match the total job?
I appear to be getting a discoloration or quat burn from 3M 5L Quat disinfectant. The vinyl tile in the patients’ restrooms turns orange. We replaced the tile about 3 years ago and now the stains are back. How can I get the orange stain out of the tile and then keep this from happening again?
My customer had new VCT flooring installed in the lobby of his building and was told he did not need to have finish applied. The floor would be OK just being mopped. I explained that the finish would keep the tile from being ruined by dirt that would be ground into the tile and eventually do permanent damage. Am I correct on this or is my customer?
Is anyone aware of a floor finish that is resistant to alcohol spills from the waterless hand sanitizers in use in most healthcare facilities?
I have a customer that wants us to power wash her wood floors. She says that there is a great deal of dirt between the groves of the floor. I have never heard of this type of cleaning for hard wood (pine) floors. What type of machine would do this type of job.
We just moved into a 2 family home. The bathroom floor had a one piece sheet vinyl floor. We started to pull it up and there is a blue powder under it. We are trying to restore the old tile floor. Any ideas on what was used and how to remove it?
I have a client who is looking for assistance in cleaning and removing a variety of spots from an acrylic-painted (?) indoor tennis court (I believe the material is a compressed rubber). He has identified the tool he wants to clean with (a dual cylindrical-brush machine) and now is seeking help on cleaning agents for both overall soil removal and, especially, spot removal.
We are having a problem with grape juice, punch, etc., leaving stains on our wax floors. Anything we use damages the finish. Our floors are tile with Phaser Monostar wax on them, sold by US Foods/Bunzl- Sofco division. We burnish them usually once a week depending on people available.
What procedure should be used for cleaning tile & grout? I don’t have a Turbo machine, just a standard floor machine. Any suggestions on the most efficient way to do this? What type of brush is necessary?
How do I periodically (twice per year) maintain/polish a marble floor in the entry of a small building I clean. I currently dust mop and wet mop (detail) once a week and spot mop as needed.
A new vinyl floor installed was in a store I clean. What cleaning method is recommended and what color of pad should be used? How many coats of finish are necessary? Do I need to strip the floor before applying finish?
We have a problem with alcohol-based hand sanitizers eating through floor finish and leaving a white stain where it drips from the dispenser or is dropped on the floor. Is there any way to remove this damage?
We just had new tile floor installed in our building. The installer told us not to use a citrus based cleaner on the floor as it could dissolve the glue. Is that true?
I need to learn how to strip and wax vinyl flooring. My customer has a really dirty floor and the current cleaning company claims that they wax it at least once per month but it doesn't look like it. Also which chemicals will do the best job?
When refinishing a floor, I have always used a sealer before applying the finish. Now they make all in one sealers/finishers eliminating the need for a separate sealer. In your opinion, is one method better than another? Does the one-step method hold up as well at the two-step?
I have a client who is requesting a strip and finish of their VCT. In the men's restroom, under the urinal, there are large areas where the finish is gone due to bad aim. Would it be best to leave this area unfinished when strip the floor and apply the new finish?
Where I can learn how to make estimates for [cleaning] wood floors?
I am in the process of attaining an account that is a night club. The owners want the dance floor stripped and waxed. The flooring is VCT. Is there a certain type of wax used on dance floors?
How do I clean floors that have lots of ice melt on them? What I am currently using is leaving white streaks. The floors look terrible. The floors have lots of traffic on them and the ice melt is constantly getting tracked in.
I recently inspected a resilient floor for a new customer. This floor has termendous yellowing in areas throughout the room. This room is a restroom. The yellowing starts at the toilet and works it way out. It is not only around the toilet, it breaks off and appears again in front of the sink. I can not figure out where this yellow is coming from. I have eliminated a chemical reaction between wax and toilet bowl cleaner. The floor has not been flood with water. I used a blade to remove the current wax (what is left) and the wax came off but the yellow remained. I feel it is in the tile. Possibly glue from the back of the tile? It does look just like urine, but is not restricted to the area around the toilet. I would really love to hear your thoughts on this matter? Thanks so much for your time. Kim - EMC
I am the full-time custodian at a high-traffic grocery store. After the annual stripping job was completed in May, I was directed by my managers to maintain a constant recoating rotation that resulted in the entire store being recoated every two weeks. After the first snowfall of the year (and subsequent salting and sanding of the parking lot), the finish on most of the floors started to flake away to bare tile. Since I'm rather inexperienced (I only have about 3 1/2 years floor experience) I was at a loss as to the cause. My managers claim it is because the floors are autoscrubbed too quickly (a charge I dispute.) Could the floors be 'over-waxed'? Or am I missing something.
What type of finish do you recommend for ceramic tile floors after the floors have been thoroughly cleaned?
A vacant office needs to be stripped and waxed but the "old" resilient tile has rust stains and my question is what chemical to use to remove these rust stains. (from filing cabinets that had been there for a number of years).
I had to strip & refinish a VCT floor. The floor has been in place for about 10 years in a hair salon. To the best of my knowledge it has always been maintained with a waxed finish. The floor pattern is in two distinct sections. The first section is a yellow/cream tile with a light tan, while second section in the same yellow/cream but with a black tile. Each section is done in alternating 2' stripes of each color. The first section (Cream with tan) stripped without problem. When we started to do the second section the cream tile stripped again with out a problem but as soon as our stripper pad broke through the wax on the black tile it began throwing black all over the floor. At first I thought I had lost the bearing and was throwing grease/oil mixed with stripper solution, but on closer inspection we soon realized that it was coming from the black tiles. To make matters worse, wherever it hit the stripped tile it bonded with it requiring additional cleaning. To finish the job we ended up stripping the floor in stripes, first the black and then finished with the yellow. With a lot of extra effort and time we got the floor refinished to the customers satisfaction. But, does anyone have any ideas as to why this happened and how to correct it should I ever run up against it again?
Recently we tested Performance floor finish from Finishline Floors. It is a new, water-based aliphatic urethane. They laid it down on a 40 foot hall of VCT. It came out a little dull and milky. It was supposed to last all year, but it has turned yellow and we have tried to remove it. Nothing we have will touch it; it is as hard as a rock. And here is the kicker. The company, Finishline Floors, is out of business. They were the only ones that we know of who carried the finish remover. Can anyone help us find a finish remover to get this stuff off? And yes, we have tried screens. But that is kind of a no-no on VCT.
We clean three big daycares for children and we are looking for the right floor finish to withstand the effects of sand, spills, and everything else that little ones can do to a floor. We cannot keep a nice shine on the commercial tile floors. The staff slide tables and chairs which makes the floors look worse. In one, they spray bug spray on the children and it eats through the wax. What can we do to remedy this problem?
What is the most efficient team set up for stripping and refinishing VCT in multiple areas of a building? We always seem to have too many on a team and too much standing around waiting for floors to dry, etc.
I have come across a problem, that I can't solve. A old VCT tile floor in a car showroom, squeaks. I have strip/ wax several times and tried many differant waxes. The noise are driving the customers and sales people crazy. Does any one have any ideas......
Maintenance of resilient flooring in very busy kidney centers presents a real challenge. One must deal with spillage of saline solutions, dyes and use of various other chemicals/disinfectants which eat away the finish. What type of floor program best suits this situation?
I have been trying to strip off an existing floor finish from around 300square yards of vinyl to a hospital entrance area which has underfloor heating. Having stripped and scrubbed the area using a light scrubber dryer and green pad, the surface feels "gritty" and any attempt at applying an emulsion polish leaves the floor looking very patchy. We have tried applying 4 or 5 thin coats but the area still looks shabby. . Does anyone know the reason for the gritty feel and uneven polish absorbency?
We are moving into a new facility this summer and want to know is it necassary to strip the factory finish off of the vinyl tile before applying additional wax coats
I have old Vinyl Asbestos Tile (VAT) that is curling up at the perimeter of the tiles. How do I secure them to the floor prior to stripping and waxing? The tiles are on a concrete deck floor. I also have some Vinyl Composition Tile (VCT) that is beginning to do the same thing.
What is the procedure for using a burnisher as opposed to a buffer? Thank you. Second question: I have to bid a job that is approx. 18,000 sq.ft. The figures I come up with are probably not going to fly. They need services every night. I'm lost on figuring it. It comes to thousands each month and they are paying now a very low price (around $1,400) but are not satisfied with sloppy work. I'm anxious to get the business but have to make it worthwhile. Please help me. The floor area to be stripped and waxed is approx. 9,000, but is a 7 day a week job. (to keep it buffed, etc.)
We clean a sports bar that has 4500 s.f. of VCT. Since the snow has arrived, the de-icer is coming into the building. How do you get the de-icer residue off the tile? We use a mop and bucket, neutral cleaner, and some chemical that is a residue remover, but that didn’t solve the problem. After a good wet mopping, and three rinses, the floor still has a film on it. I know an autoscrubber would do it, but you would have to clear the floor of many tables and chairs every night, and the owner doesn't want to pay for the extra time and labor. Any help would be very welcomed.
I attempted to strip, seal and wax a vinyl floor. After the stripping, a number of dark spots appeared on the floor. No matter how much I used a black stripping pad, the spots wouldn’t come out. The customer is working with me, but I need a fast answer as to what chemicals and equipment to use. Please be specific about brand names and how I can purchase the chemicals I need. Thanks.
How does one go about keeping a parquet floor clean? After it’s been cleaned and given time to dry, shoe marks appear right after people start walking on it again. How can I solve this problem?
Can you tell me the proper procedure to deeply scrub corrugated floors? This floor has groves and valleys; it is not a smooth floor.
Do you see any value in mortar and grout products with antimicrobial additives?
I was asked to strip, seal and wax a 12 x 12 vinyl tile floor. It looks like dirt has been ground into the tile surface, and it won’t come out. What can I use to get rid of this dirt?
I need info on the pros and cons of using air movers for drying modern finishes on VCT and other floors. Our new floor team leader seems to think the floor will be shinier if it dries naturally. Any info is appreciated.
We have been asked to restore a color-stained & sealed concrete floor. Unfortunately the customer doesn’t know what products were originally used on it. When new, the floor had a semi-gloss finish. The over all condition is good with very little scratching or marring, however, after several years of heavy traffic the gloss has been worn away in several places. The concrete is still sealed (water doesn’t permeate the surface) with a solvent (non-water based) sealer/finish. We have performed a test with water-based stripper and there was no softening or discoloration of the finish. The original finish was a very low maintenance finish and our main concern with water-based finishes is scratching, marring and longevity. What are your recommendations to clean and restore the finish of this floor to its original condition?